Getting into RC model helicopters is like sex, a bit scary until you learn how (it's even been said helis are the most fun you can have with your pants on). Since we've fielded pretty much every question there is, this FAQ highlights themes we hear pretty often whilst offering a little bit of insight into what to expect.
How does $40/gallon for nitro fuel make sense vs an electric 600?
I occasionally shoot a round of golf at our city-owned course with pal who owns a restaurant. He goes 2-3/week, but because golf's not really my 'thang', going with him a few times a year is plenty. Sets me back $150 for greens fees and my share of the cart and we have some fun.
So I was reflecting on this recently while someone with a brand new SAB Goblin RAW 580 Nitro was getting his balls busted by one of the electric guys. Like he was yanking his chain about a gallon of nitro fuel going for $42 at the local hobby shop!
And it wasn't just the electric-crowd ganging up because even one of the guys who flies gasoline-powered models popped off about the price of nitro fuel. This, even though he ponies up $27/gallon for ethanol-free Trufuel premix (no room to talk, in my opinion, but whatever).
So here's the thing, for most pilots, a gallon of fuel lasts about a month, maybe a bit less. Saying if $10-15/week calls your participation in the sport into question, then I've got nothing because we're talking about fuel - for an entire season of flying - adding up to a lousy round of golf!
And things aren't as clear cut as electric guys would have you believe. The unspoken flip side of electric flight includes . . . 6-minute flights, eternally waiting to charge, plus the risk of tacoing a $150 pack in a crash. And it only took mention of destroying a pack for the tide to begin turning. Suddenly a couple of the more experienced pilots were nodding because we've all tossed $150-200 crash-damaged packs!
Added to it, what nobody likes about electric models is waiting on packs to charge. True, whether it's at the field, or beforehand at home because packs are dangerous and you can't let them charge unattended (fire risk). So electric is not exactly rainbows and unicorn farts because nobody gives away packs, you actually sacrifice a fair bit of your life babysitting the stinkin' things, and 6 minutes is just not long enough!
Meanwhile, with nitro, you land, fuel up in minutes, fire it up, and launch. And we're talking 15 minutes flights! So look, it's not like the zzzzzz of an electric going by is boring, but straight up, the rush of flying a screaming nitro model is special. Like if you know, no explanation is necessary. And if you don't, then no explanation is possible (but consider this me taking my best shot).
I've heard helis are really hard to fly . . . are they really?
TL;DR: True - but not impossible - and if you get a cheap fixed-pitch toy heli plus a simulator, you'll learn to hover in a matter of an hour, or so.
Works like kids learning to steer and pedal trikecycles 'before' tackling a 2-wheeler. Turns out learning to fly a collective-pitch model helicopter is easiest with the equivalent of training wheels . . . toy-grade department store model helicopter, plus a computer flight simulator!
The toy plus the sim are tools. Use them to master hovering and more quickly get the hang of things. Believe me, you can do this!
Look, we don't sell the fixed-pitch models or the simulators - but - because we've helped thousands, we know these are the tools to master hovering in no time. And once you can hover, then the world's your oyster because 'all' helicopters feel about the same in the hover. I know because I amazed a full-scale instructor by being able to hover the first time I was in the right seat. And your major benefit comes if you get in trouble, because then you just bail out into a familiar hover to buy time to think . . . even from 200 feet away. Believe me, hovering is like hitting the pause button before deciding on a course of action!
And when it comes to computer flight simulators, there are many. They include RF (Real Flight), popular because it's available in hobby shops, (but a bit expensive). Plus my personal favorite, HELI-X, which costs much less and has a very realistic feel of actually flying. Best part about this one is if you buy an inexpensive USB dongle (<$15), then you may use your own transmitter instead of the flimsy type included with other sims.
Anyway, don't be afraid. If you're Jonesing helicopters - and true whether it's our P6, or one of our competitor's - if you first buy a fixed pitch toy and then beg, borrow, or steal some simulator time - then you can fly helicopters too!
Wouldn't a small collective-pitch model be better than fixed-pitch for learning to hover?
TL:DR Don't confuse a $50 toy great for honing reflexes with a $200-300 indoor model capable of 3D in the right hands.
Small collective pitch models can be fun - if - you have where to fly them. Problem comes in when you realize YouTube experts may fly them in a bedroom but when you go to fly one, hovering is about the size of it. But it gets worse because if you take a tiny small model outside, then even a light breeze is overwhelming. Bottom line? Unless you have access to a gymnasium, small models are limited by the physics of the real world.
Helis range from 180-700mm, but the sweet spot according to crowd wisdom is 600mm . . . and nitro gives you more bang for the buck!
Why not a SAB Goblin Kraken 580 instead?
TL:DR - a P6 is appreciated for being larger, more like a 700 size-wise. And repair costs are lower, which is a big deal (unless you never crash).
Many consider a P6 being larger than other high performance models like an SAB Goblin Kraken 580 Nitro an unfair advantage. But that it helps with orientation at a distance is a big deal you cannot overestimate (and a $10 dress kit further improves visibility).
Added to which, a P6 is so durable because of how plastic flexes - inherently tougher because it's not rigid like carbon fiber. So where carbon fiber breaks, plastic flexes . . . like the story of the willow vs the mighty oak.
Then there are parts cost, where a P6 tail boom costs a fraction of an $88 a Kraken boom. Means unless you're buying your model to fit in with others, then repair costs are part of the calculus in determining if the juice is worth the squeeze.
Look, in all honesty, if your dream is 3D, then the SAB is more capable because it's smaller and lighter. It simply reacts more quickly than a P6. But if the drunk mosquito routine doesn't float your boat, then a big P6 with it's super smooth handling is probably better for you.
Or put another way, it's the story of the young bull and the old bull all over again!
What makes a 600mm the best size?
In truth there's no one best size model for everybody, but you can make some generalizations. For example, that a simulator plus a tiny fixed pitch model are great for practicing orientation and hovering are uncontested.
Also uncontested is this . . . the bigger the model, the better it flies. Of course, and no surprise, the flip side of bigger means these models also cost more. Meanwhile, collective pitch helis range from 180-700mm.
. . . but the three popular nitro engine classes of .37, .55. and 1.05ci correspond to 500, 600, and 700mm main rotor blades. And if you survey 100 flying fields, the most popular warhorse for day-in and day-out use is a 600-class model. By a wide margin, and it's not even close!
Basically, 600-class is the cross over for kit/repair prices, the cost of avionics, fuel consumption, blade prices, and enough size to be largely unaffected by winds that ground smaller model. This isn't a new trend but one that's developed over the course of decades!
600-class is historically the sweet spot for good reason.
What does the P6 use a flybar, what's with that?
TLDR: models with flybars simplifying your experience and greatly reducing your total cost.
Flybars (mechanical gyros) were eliminated in favor of FBL-gyros to save money (by reducing parts count). But then surprising exactly nobody, the prices of 3-axis FBL-gyros skyrocketed. Now, instead of a flybar equipped model sporting a dirt cheap single-axis $90 gyro, FBL models require a pricey 3-axis gyro at $200-500 - so not exactly chump change!
Bottom line? Making models cheaper to build by offloading the cost of the well proven mechanical gyro (flybar) in exchange for an electronic flybar-substitute, the 3-axis FBL-gyro shifted the monkey onto your back (avionics-wise) because now you spend 2-3X more for the gyro!
Worse, while you can adjust a single axis gyro is less than 10-seconds, FBL-gyros are more complex. Worse, some require a special interface box, ot force you to drag a laptop to the field to dial them in!
Anyway, because we saw this coming a mile away and resisted the trend to eliminate the flybar. This makes you the winner if you're satisfied spending $90 for the gyro and enjoying the simplicity of the mechnical gyro. We recommend the Futaba GY470.
Is it true you can convert the P6 from assisted mechanical gyro to FBL?
It's true. If you want to ditch the mechanical gyro in favor of electronics, step 1 is move the mechanical hardware and use a couple skinny screws.
If you'd just rather an flybarless head, then behold the infamous red neck flybarless conversion (usually abbreviated RNFBL).
Converting the Mk II head to FBL is just a matter of using two long 2mm bolts (M2x25) after you remove the mechanical gyro (the flybar hardware). Then switch out the el cheapo 1-axis gyro for one of many 3-axis FBL gyros from the likes of Futaba, Spektrum, IKON, et al and follow the crowd into complicating your life.
We can say that authoritatively, and by way of heads up (so you can't say nobody told you), it'll still fly the same as with the mechanical gyro.
Can the P6 be converted to use 700mm main rotor blades?
TL;DR - Yes, the P6 may be fitted with 700mm blades with a rotor head RPM limit.
As horses go, they P6 is never gonna be mistaken for a Kentucky Derby 3D type model, it's more of a solid quarter horse. But when fitted with the awesome load carrying Quattro fitted, especially with 700mm main rotor blades for low-RPM ops to reduce the noise footprint, the P6 becomes something of a stout little donkey. A good one, too!
Just know this, a stretch kit doesn't give you a 700 on the cheap. The rotors are made for 600mm loads, not 700mm. And note; Quattro production is unavailable for civilian sale, sorry.
Curious about this rotor head? This brief video shows how we make them.
What is an XS?
We developed a P6 for an OS105 engine. Fitted it with OS ENGINES 15GT gas burner, also. This leads back to the question of 700-on-the-cheap by using a stretch kit to fit 700mm main rotor blades (and 115mm tails instead of 90mm to hold it).
Look, while a 55 likely doesn't have the stones to overspin the Mk II even with 700mm blades, an 105 may well blow it up. Yo want to be a test pilot, go ahead but we're telling you don't do it. It's a 600. Period. So because we don't want to be associated with someone taking the risk we offered to buy back the ones we'd sold. Sorry, but we don't make these conversion parts available any longer, sorry.
Is a Pantera P6 difficult for fly?
TL;DR: Yes, but a little simulator time plus a $50 fixed-pitch toy helicopter will soon see you hovering.
Not gonna lie, flying model helicopters is challenging. A Pantera is easier than a model optimized for 3D, but make no mistake, it's still no walk in the park. Silver lining is this; just as kids first learn to pedal trikes, then add balancing skills before swooping around on a 2-wheeler, helicopter flight is similar (plus there are cheat codes). No kidding, the secret to more quickly developing the skills to fly a model helicopter just involve a toy-grade department-store model helicopter plus an über sophisticated flight simulator!
Spend $50-75 for a fixed pitch toy, plus a few hours access to a simulator, and you'll be hovering in no time. Toy is surprisingly good to develop reflexes, and if you want your own simulator, they're about $200. Point being, once you can hover, the world's your oyster. Get in trouble? No matter what . . . bail out into a familiar hover to buy time to think - even from 200 feet away! Hovering is a complete game changer compared to model airplanes and trucks because when things are going pear shape, you can essentially hit the pause button and enter a hover before deciding on a course of action.
So buy a toy helicopter, beg, borrow, or steal simulator time, and just like sex, helicopters are fun immediately!
Are indoor models the way to go?
TL:DR Don't confuse a $50 toy great for honing reflexes with a $200 indoor model capable of 3D in the right hands.
In truth, there's a lot of good to be said for teeny-tiny <200mm rotor blade models. Especially sophisticated 3D-capable collective-pitch helicopters like the fabulous Blade Fusion 180. Problem comes when you go outside and realize even a light breeze is overwhelming.
Put another way, it doesn't matter they're sophisticated, they're limited by physics. Means great fun in the hands of an expert pilot, but for most they're a pricey bauble because you don't have easy access to a gymnasium and in the real world, flying one at home is a non-starter. So if you're flush, then KYO but if money is tight, you're smarter to stick to the $50 toy and a sim to get the basics of hovering and then investing in a model large enough to be classified as all-weather which in our experience means 600-class, and larger. Look, you don't have to believe us, visit your local flying field and use your eyes to see what others mostly fly.
That said, everything has a downside. Knowing the larger they are the better they fly, the drawback of 700-class models (what fly the best), is they're costly to buy, equip, and repair. And like cubic money is the plague of 700-class models, the nemesis of indoor models include wind, walls, people, cats and dogs!
However, there's a sweet spot in the helicopter world, and crowd wisdom guides you toward 600-nitro as the best bang for the buck! That's what a Pantera P6 is all about.
What makes a Pantera better for me?
TL:DR - reason a Pantera is best for you is it builds easier, handles great, is more durable, and is larger than 600-class alternative thus, easier to see at a distance.
When compared to competing 600-class designs, a built-in Pantera P6 advantage include durability.This is down to plastic construction being inherently tougher than carbon fiber 'because' it's not as rigid. Means instead of breaking, it flexes like the willow vs the mighty oak.
But another advantage is it's just physically larger. This makes it easier to see and control. Proof? When an inexpensive 700-class fiberglass canopy finds its way onto a Pantera, it doesn't look stupid size-wise. Saying it fits perfectly and doesn't look out of place. This is because a Pantera is as large as most 700-class and a 'lot' larger than competing 600-class models!
Your immediate payoff is it helps with orientation when the model is larger because you can see what's going on from further away. Look, it's not rocket science, bigger pays off with better flight characteristics but also in terms of visual orientation. And believe me, with no wing to help, orientation is a big deal with helicopters.
What's with the Pantera flybar?
TLDR: models with a flybar vs FBL gyro are easier to setup and fly, and use less costly gyros. In short, simpler 'and' you save money!.
The mechanical flybar gyros was largely eliminated in favor of FBL gyros to save money (fewer parts). But then (and surprising exactly nobody,) prices for electronic stabilizers (FBL, or flybarless) gyros skyrocketed.
Once upon a time, models equipped with a flybar were common as dirt and gyros cost <$100. These days, when even entry level FBL 3-axis gyro go for $200 and $300-$500 is quite common, or not exactly talking chump change!
Bottom line? Manufacturers eliminated the cost of the flybar mechanism to lower their parts costs, but in ditching the mechanical gyro stabilizer, they've forced you forced to embrace more costly electronic flybar-substitutes. So the monkey is on your back, avionics-wise. You're forced to spend more money, or opt for a more simple experience with a Pantera!
Bottom line? We saw this coming a mile away and stayed the course. Now you reap the rewards of well proven mechanical stabilizer technology and save money!
How many channels does it need?
TL:DR Bare minimum is 5-channels, and you can get away with 6-channels, but if you're a lifer in the sport, then our advice is is invest in a 7 channel RF system as the minimum, but if you're smart you get a 10-channel. Collective pitch helicopters call for 5-channels, minimum. These being 3 servos for cyclic/collective (pitch, roll, and collective), another for tail rotor (yaw) makes 4, plus a 5th channel for engine throttle (or if electric, then the ESC). The 6th channel is for gyro gain. We guide you a 7-channel, instead because you can avoid destructive lean engine runs with a Pantera. How? Simple, by installing a $30 servo to adjust the needle valve. Can't you do this with other helis? Nope, Pantera is equipped with mounts for up to 8 servo mounts vs the usual limit of 5 servos. Being more versatile means it's trivial to install another servo. What for? Maybe for adjusting the carburetor's needle valve to richen the engine's fuel mixture in the air instead of having to land to do it. Needle is a great use for an added channel.
Why do you recommend more than 6-channels?
TL:DR ordinary collective pitch models are quipped for 5 servos, the Pantera has mounts for up to 8 servos. being more versatile allows more functions. means your transmitter has to be up to scratch.
An overlook feature of the Pantera are the added provisions for mounting additional servos. Your benefit is obvious as the luxury of adding servos means other possible functions. For example, what if you get the itch for a model equipped with a horizontal stabilizer? One that pitches downward during descent like the Sikorsky Blackhawk, which is famous for the huge horizontal stabilizer it pitches negative to hold the aircraft in a level orientation when recovering from to a level attitude after making an aggressive combat descent so it can unload troops more quickly. The extra servo mount aft by the tailboom makes this trivial makes deploying this function trivial. Doesn't even have to be installed in a scale model, you can install a large aircraft-like horizontal stab just for the fun of it! Or perhaps you want a set of mechanical retracting landing gear units for a Bell 222. Since you'll need to install a servo to operate them, then use one of extra forward frame mounts. Similarly, if you were building a Jet Ranger in the livery of either your local newscaster or sheriff department, then because a Spectrolab SX-16 Nightsun searchlight is a common full-scale feature, then the extra servo mount comes in handy for the scale function (the spotlight is often rotated off to one side). Or for those wicked stinger of a gunship's twin barrel machine gun which is aimed with an extra servo. You get extra servo mounts to help you achieve versatility, not impose limits!
If buying for yourself, how many channels would you get?
TL:DR Bottom line? The Pantera is great to install in scale models! So our advice is don't box yourself in channel-wise. Beginner level RF-advice is often to buy a Spektrum DX-6 for about $280. Saving money with this unit seems smart but is actually pretty dump. And many guide you toward the nearly $500 NX8+ transmitter, instead.
The 6-channel radios a re a bad idea. Proof? Look at how easy they are to buy dirt cheap on forums and Facebook Marketplace. Means folks have wised up and are trying to pawn them off on the unsuspecting.
The Spektrum NX8+ is actually a pretty darn good unit. Note; while they don't hide the fact, if bought as a bundle with a BNF model, while it may not be obvious, you'll end up buying another receiver when you go to more complex model. Making the purchase this way means ending up with a minimum level receiver, which ends up costing you more money vs getting what you need up front. Or put another way, if you overlook the fine print . . . gotcha!
That said, I purchased an NX10+ instead of the 8+. Your money, do as you please, I'm just sharing our experience. And in a similar vein, we also own a Jeti DS12 (12 channels for $650 but can be upgraded to 16), and it's a great unit. Similarly, I own a Futaba 16SZ, which is hands down our favorite. But we don't sell RF and thus, don't have a dog in the hunt.
One more tip, these things are sold in fixed-wing and rotary-wing specific configurations. The heli version eliminates the ratchet/detente on the throttle/collective stick (one on the left), and moves the 2-position switch from top-left to top-right (where experienced heli pilots are hardwired to flip the switch to perform an autorotation in the event of trouble).
Otherwise, the software is the same in both. And while you can open the back of the transmitter to remove the ratchet/detente yourself, moving the switch ranges from impossible to inconvenient. Buy the heli-oriented transmitter!
Last thing; basic reason we don't get in bed with any of the RF suppliers, e.g. we leave the transmitter/receiver/gyro decision up to you, is we feel you're better off using what local pilots use. Honestly? That may well be Spektrum because they make good stuff. But it could also be Futaba, Jeti, FrSky, or someone else.
Worse, dealing with FBL gyros is a complete can of worms, which is why we produce a model with flybar, instead. Means you only need an inexpensive (<$100) single-axis gyro instead of a 6 MEMS 3-axis gyro The single axis is dead nuts easy to set up in comparison. Night and day.
Regardless, using a transmitter your pal already knows how to program is a big help because then they make excuses for not helping you, or have to break out the manual to suss it out first. Heads up.
How important is simulator training before flying my model?
TL;DR flight simulators significantly enhance skills, thus allowing you to practice maneuvers and develop muscle memory without risking your model.
I'm strongly in favor of using a computer flight simulator. Which one is best? Not my monkey, not my circus. Saying these aren't our products. Since this has never stopped me sharing an opinion, here goes.
To begin, I'm not advanced 3D pilot by any stretch, but am a quite competent sportsman pilot. That said, I've never found any particular simulator to be the reason for my lack of progress. Also, when I spend some quality time with the sim, then I see progress at the field. Saying whichever one you pick, it'll be fine for learning to hover.
Anyway, popular simulator packages include HELI-X Professional Flight Simulator, RealFlight RC Flight Simulator, AccuRC RC Flight Simulator, and neXt RC Flight Simulator. There are others but these range from $100 to $200 and cover the market well. As it happens I own two copied of RealFlight (and have a 3rd kicking around for which I've misplaced the license key).
Why so many? It's a long story involving a son-in-law who forgot the 10th commandment and while I could make the story longer, ultimately, the RealS sim has been good enough I haven't bothered investigating another.
Note, all but RealFiight have demos available so try them and see for yourself. Also, all are available on Steam. Last thing; PhoenixRC is now free because it's been discontinued, and although it's somewhat outdated, it remains extremely good as a free option.
Finally, and proving which simulator doesn't matter, the other day I found my Skylark RC Flight Simulator disks. Wasted half a day giving the old wire-frame graphics a try and the physics remain superb more than 30 years later!
What are the real costs?
TL;DR costs build up quickly so our inclination is to blow smoke up your skirt and dissemble. But I predict you're gonna tear up $2000 before you're done.
This answer is quite tricky - and dangerous to the business - because if we're not careful we potentially talk ourselves out of a sale. This is because we don't know what you have already. Or what your hopes and dreams include. Or much of anything, really, so asking this is akin to asking how high up the sky extends (~60 miles, but it depends).
Short answer, you enter the game with $300 for the Pantera. Then add whatever you decide is wise in the way of servos and gyro. There are alternatives in the way of engines ($200-400), mufflers, $10-70, and for our parts, we offer cyclic servos ranging from $40 to $140 (think beginner outfitting his model versus professional UAS, which because defense contractors represent 3/4 of our market, means we know exactly what servo works best).
To this add whatever you desire in the way of a transmitter but $300 is the floor for new equipment and another $500-800 isn't unreasonable. But maybe you already have a transmitter, we don't know! Or maybe you're queer for engines and slipping bearings into a used OS Max 50SX you found on eBay for $50 sees it flying for a $75 investment (we make this easy with a how-to on updating engine bearings). As always, costs will depend.
How much are crash costs?
TL:DR - sorry, there's no such thing as an average crash.
Crashes vary in the costs because no two are the same. I've tipped over following an autorotation and spent $100 one time, only $10 another. Similarly I once lost an engine whilst hovering inverted, the model settled into the grass and if I'd have found a lost link cost would have been zero. Yes, my friends were amazed. But another guy pulling the same dumb stunt may fork over $100 in repairs.
Sorry, but the question is too broad. That said, what we call the usual suspects don't vary too much from brand to brand and include main rotor blades, tail boom, all shafts (main, tail output, and feathering spindle), plus other bits and bobs, e.g. landing gear struts (you can straighten the alloy skids).
That said, blades range from $20 for wood upwards to $150 for carbon fiber, so as usual, it depends. And note; don't pooh-pooh wood blades because world championships have been won with wood blades. In fact, if you're a model airplane craftsman, then fiberglassing a few sets over the winter is a fun activity.
What are smart safety precautions?
TL:DR - preflight the machine like your life depends on it, hover with skids above eye level, stay 50 feet away, and keep spectators - especially children and pets - completely out of the picture.
When we're asked about safety precautions a few specifics immediately spring to mind but mostly it's down to enlightened self-interest, or put another way, self-preservation.
Think about it; a lawnmower with a 20in diameter blade will make a mess of your foot, right? So what do you think may happen with even a small model helicopter, say one sporting 230mm rotor blades spinning at 3000RPM?
Note; main rotor blades commonly extend into the 700mm range, and often larger in diameter (hence more energy). Significantly larger diameter than most model airplane propellers. I once wrote an article about the dangers or props after a pal shared photos of how badly contact with a spinning prop damaged his hand (don't look if you have a weak stomach, it wasn't pretty).
Point being, you're responsible for pre-flighting the machine before flight. By this meaning to look it over carefully and ensure it's safe for operation. As the pilot in command, you decide when and where to fly and our advice is don't do it near spectators, especially children and pets who will be unaware of the danger posed. And even with regard to yourself, 50ft is a prudent distance to stand clear in my opinion, at a minimum before spooling up to hover. Speaking of which, we advise hovering with skids at or above eye level in hopes any blade component gets slung off the model sails safely over your head.
Bottom line? Model helicopters may seem like neat toys, they may even be referred to as toys for big boys, but they can hurt you. Stay as vigilant as you would around someone holding a hand grenade.
How much wind is too much?
TL:DR - it depends because technically, a model helicopter can fly in winds up to it's maximum forward airspeed.
As a practical matter, larger helicopters fly at higher airspeed and thus, have higher performance capabilities. Put another way, the larger the model, the more wind it can handle. But as always, it depends. That said, let's try to put some numbers to it.
To begin, I've flown a 600-class model in any wind a 700 can handle. That said, 20mph gusts are getting to the limit at which 'I' no longer want to fly because flying is less fun when fighting a strong wind. However, we have Midwestern customers who routinely fly in 20mph winds because it's always blowing on America's plains. Saying if they don't fly in 20mph winds, they don't fly at all.
What's the effect of size? Simply this, even a 5-7mph breeze is enough to make a 450-class model less fun. And that amounts to a hurricane for 200mm bade model. So because it seems there's always wind, if you look around at what others have selected, the vast majority fly 600mm rotor blade models.
How long will the model fly on one tank of fuel?
TL:DR - it depends on how aggressively you're flying the model.
Main rotor RPM is generally determined by engine speed. However, main rotor length and blade pitch angle play a role. Point being, engine RPM determines fuel consumption so if you're a beginner spending a lot of time hovering, achieving a 20 minute flight is fairly common. However, another factor rears its head and that's fuel mixture. Basically, you have full control over the air/fuel ratio and the leaner the mixture, the longer the fuel will last.
Problem is too lean will destroy and engine and too rich won't let it develop enough power to fly. While it's easy to say 'somewhere in the middle' in practice this turns out to be good advice. Added to which, Pantera pilots benefit by having where to install a mixture servo to adjust the needle valve in flight, which is far more convenient than what other pilots have to do, which is land to make adjustments.
In practice, this means if you're going to practice nose-in hovering, for example, you can lean the mixture in flight so the engine develops maximum power because this is also where it consumes the least amount of fuel (because the mixture is lean). Why do this? To let the model fly longer missions! Each sortie results in longer flight so you log more time and build experience more quickly!
The flip side is if you're practicing aggressive flight, you'd rather have the needle nice and fat (means rich) so the engine runs cooler because you'll be loading it with aggressive pitch setting, think tick-tocks, or rainbow maneuvers where the engine experiences heavy periodic loads. Now the fuel economy plummets and 12-13 minutes is normal.
How long with my receiver battery last?
TL:DR - again this is akin to asking how high is up. In general, expect to use a 5000mAh pack for the avionics and it'll last 7-8 flights of 12-15 minutes each before recharging. But no matter what, always confirm battery pack voltage is in the safe range before departing on another sortie. No exceptions!
Helicopter servos are in constant motion. Means higher current consumption than that experienced by fixed wing models. Think about it, if the main rotor is turning at 2000RPM, during the hover, this means three cyclic servos are making adjustments non-stop (moving from one side of neutral to the other) on the order of 30X per second.
This, as the main rotor rotates and cyclic servos make adjustments to blade pitch as the blades rotate (because they pitch up and down depending on where they are in the cycle). But the tail rotor servos is busy counteracting torque the whole time, and the engine throttle is making adjustments, too.
So while the avionics may operate on a 2S lithium chemistry pack to use the right voltage level, you determine the capacity, which from us may range from 650mAh to 6000mAh. Most pilots select a B2S5000, a 2-cell, series pack, of 5000mA capacity and are happy.
But no matter what, always confirm voltage is in the proper range 'before' embarking on another sortie. As pilot in command it's your responsibility to operate the model in a safe manner and just like you wouldn't drive from Baltimore to New York on a near empty tank, the prudent pilot never flies without checking there's enough juice in the pack to complete the mission. Heads up!
What's required in the way of routine maintenance?
TL:DR - routine maintenance varies and includes, but is not limited to, examining the main and tail rotor blades for damage before flight, ensuring all nuts and bolts are secured, and that nothing has come loose (muffler bolt, fuel line, blade bolt, landing gear bolt, etc.) before operation. Look the machine over as if your life depended on it!
Other maintenance includes lubing the tail pitch slider ring with light machine oil before commencing operation for the day. Ditto the main pitch components. Check for lubrication at the main-rotor and tail-rotor thrust bearings, that the dampers have a dab of grease, and that in general the machine is airworthy before taking flight.
While there may be emergency landings, there's really no such thing as an emergency departure so take your time and confirm everything is safe and ready for flight before flying your model.
What's available in the way of places to fly and other with whom to fly, community?
TL:DR - we advise joining the AMA and ensure you have your FAA documents in order.
We're blessed in America to have a community level organization known as the AMA, for Academy of Model Aeronautics. The FAI (the World's Air Sports Federation or in French, the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale), are the world governing body to which AMA represents us on the national level with regard to air sports. The AMA is our umbrella for organizing, operating, and competition.
A nice thing is the AMA maintains a directory of clubs, so do a state lookup and then see who is nearest. While most folks only have one or two clubs nearby, I live in Central Florida and find it convenient to be a member of three different clubs out of maybe a dozen clubs in nearby driving range. Saying most folks have choices!
Beyond this, a few years back the Feds got involved with model airplanes and helicopters because big business was gearing up to enter the drone market in a big way. While this hasn't really panned out as some predicted, the unfortunate byproduct is modelers have been bigfooted and have come to the attention of the Federal Government. means you also need to comply with their regulations. Don't want to be caught with your pants down so heads up.
How do I improve my flying skills?
TL:DR - burn more fuel
Short and sweet, getting better means flying more, and flying with a plan. This last means don't just bore holes in the sky. Not if you want to improve. Specifically?
Simple, your body will clue you in. Find you don't like landing approaches left to right because the prevailing wind sees you landing into the wind right-to-left? Switch to the opposite side of the field and begin shooting approaches from left-to-right instead. Saying our body tells you what needs practice based on what you don't like doing.
For example, I once knew a fellow who could only fly left hand circles about himself. Couldn't fly left hand circles in front of himself if his soul depended on it! I tried and tried to get him to do otherwise, he didn't care.
So happy as a clam in the mud, he only flew left hand circles around himself. Smart guy, too, and with plenty of money (fancy turbine powered German model costing like $6000) but perfectly happy flying left hand circles around himself. Who's to say he's wrong?
However, in general, flying with a plan leads to improvement. So plan the flight, then work the plan. You'll get better. I, for example, spend half a tank each day practicing nose-in hovering. If I don't I find myself shying away from nose-in maneuvers. Works for me!
What upgrades are available?
TL:DR - the sky's the limit, or put another way, how much money you got?
Upgrades exist in two basic categories, functional and cosmetic. Amongst the lowest cost functional upgrades include a pair of 5mm flanged bearings that'll set you back all of ten bucks for the pair. They replace a pair of nylon bushings on the elevator pitch control lever within the side frame assembly.
Similarly, upgrading from wood to fiberglass blades is considered functional upgrade. Ditto upgrading to faster servos or a fancy gyro. But the fundamental helicopter you buy from us for $300 that's all you need to have fun.
Cosmetic upgrades include many, which some companies will persuade you are functional but in the real world - in our opinion - really aren't. Examples, which we ourselves offer, include all the carbon fiber goodies - 100% are cosmetic. That said, if you persuade yourself you can't live without a snazzy carbon fiber tail boom, I promise the justification will be this thing may improve yaw response because it's significantly stiffer than the stock alloy tail boom.
However, included amongst cosmetic upgrades are our custom painted fiberglass canopies, and these can blur the line. Like are they cosmetic because the look is appealing, or is it a functional upgrade because the reason for selecting one is because you'll be able to see the model better at a distance?
What can I do to make the mode more visible?
TL:DR - fluorescent stickers and training gear help.
Unlike model airplanes with a stab, wings, and fuselage to visually anchor your orientation, helicopters, especially so-called pod-and-boom style like the Pantera (meaning no fuselage, just the fish head over the mechanics) are much harder to see.
Adding stickers to the tail boom helps. Amongst those included on the stock sticker sheet are two yellow ones which help the black boom stand out better. But a visit to a local sign shop may result in even better sticker material you can trim to size/shape and apply, instead.
Brings up this fact, just because we supply them doesn't mean the stickers actually stick. Reason is the HDPE from which the canopy is molded has the incredible virtue of being nearly indestructible (a big plus when you're learning to fly), but is also so slick even spray paint comes peels off easily.
Point being, we include a large sticker sheet of largely useless decals and it's up to you which ones you chose to use to decorate your model. Some guys want every single sticker and then add ones for their equipment and engine brands (ending up resembling a race car with sponsor images). I, myself, am famous for applying no stickers whatsoever and flying the white canopy with just the windscreen attached. For most photos, we've trimmed the tribal barbs off creating a long blue swoop, etc.
Finally, although it's gonna flake off in a crash (meaning using spray-type or brush-on paint remover and hosing the scheme off to begin again), we detail techniques in a white paper for how to relatively successfully spray paint the HDPE canopy to achieve the look that suits you! Getting something highly visible is a common goal of pilots who don't want to pony up the dough for our Hotliner paint scheme.
What's the plan if my model behaves unpredictably in flight?
TL;DR - when I've had a model do the unpredictable, I immediately flip the switch and auto to a landing as quickly as a I can. I practice these expressly for engine out emergencies - but - an added benefit of a split drive model like Pantera is you can disengage the drive train with the flick of a switch. This effectively sets aside many components that could possibly be the cause. An autorotation, or how helicopters glide to landings without the use of propulsion, is a handy maneuver to master for this reason.
Bottom line, if the model does something untoward, land immediately and investigate because broken and lose components don't heal themselves. Note; shout (loudly) to declare an inflight emergency so other pilots will give your the right of way.
How do I transport my model safely?
TL;DR - most transport the model on the skids with blades folded back stored in a foam carrier. Safer in the trunk where in the event of accident it won't become a projectile (Newton's 2nd Law) and thus, pose a danger to human life, but with the prevalence of SUV-type vehicles, then strapping it down through the landing gear struts is about the best I've seen most folks do.
That said, I've been messing with model helicopters for more than 50 years and here's the thing; humans are inventive critters! As a consequence, I've seen more inventive ways of transporting models than you can shake a stick at.I'm guilty myself. For example, I have a roadie case custom made to fit two models I can check with the airlines, or hand over to UPS in reasonable confidence they'll arrive at their destination - shaken but not broken - meaning intact. Expensive. Less costly, a hardcase gold-caddy works just as well. This is an area for expressing yourself, I welcome photos.
It's spring, what maintenance should I pull?
TL;DR - ensure the model is safe and ready for flight as if it were a brand new model and your life depends on the outcome. And if you fly with a pal, ask him to be a 2nd set of eyes and look it over, also.
At a minimum, after wintering, I thoroughly asses the condition of the flight batterypack (the 2S that provides juice for receiver, gyro, and servos). I also strip down the fuel systems and replace the fuel tubing with new tubing. I replace the fuel filter (or backwash it). I wash and lube the air filter. And I do a super thorough preflight and lube.
Afterward, using the radio system, I fully exercise the flight controls and ensure everything works, looks, and sounds like normal. Note; I'm old school and still lie to do what's called a range check. Some radios have a range check function where output power is reduced. Check your manual for the specifics as these broad directives aren't adequate for all RF systems.
I also carefully inspect the main and tail rotor blades for damage. Finally, I toss last season's radio on-off switch in the trash in favor of a new one ($10 insurance policy).
What's best practice with regard to charging the flight pack?
TL;DR - follow the manufacturer's instruction.
As a general rule, I avoid discharging batteries below 80% of their capacity. And with flight packs, try HARD not to use more than 60% capacity. Overly conservative? maybe, I'm relating what I o and recommend.
In practice, this means a Pantera equipped with a B2S5000 pack (battery, 2-cells in series, rated at 5000mA of capacity) never sees the charger report returning more than 3000mA back into the battery. Grade school math, which some can do perfectly well in their heads works out to 5000mA x 0.6 = 3000mA. Means 2000mA of overhead. Excessive?
Honestly? I'd rather put the pack on the field charger and wait whilst running my mouth with my pals than risk 'any' possibility of flying with a pack too close to empty. Then again, I'm more conservative today than John at 30 y/o, when I might well have flown out the limit of 80% of the capacity, leaving just 1000mA.
Can I fly my Pantera indoors?
TL;DR - can you? Yes! Should you? Maybe, you're a big boy, take what risks you desire. Put another way, not my monkey, not my circus so you do you. Me? I wouldn't!
That said, I've seen a fellow hover a Pantera within the confines of his garage. Yes, the double car garage door was wide open, and for my part, I was peering around the corner like the big chicken I am. And no, he didn't do it routinely, mostly I think he wanted to prove a point and maybe say he had. Whatever.
What about within a gymnasium? Again, maybe you will, but I only fly mine outdoors and advise you to do the same. But in America people have carte blanche to do stupid stuff, and I'm not your Daddy so you do you.
Just remember the wisdom of Tom Hanks' words in the movie Forrest Gump, when his character infamously uttered . . . 'Stupid is as stupid does!' and consider yourself warned.
I got a toy-like fixed-pitch heli at Walmart, when do I ditch it?
TL;DR - basically, once you're comfortable flying a fixed-pitch model helicopter and have learned fundamental flight maneuvers like take off, hovering (both tail-in, nose-in, at 45° angles, and side-on), perform pirouetting turns in both directions, and execute landings without a bounce, then yes, you’re probably ready to make the move to your all-weather model.
I field this question surprisingly often. Usually couched in the form of, 'When do I know I'm ready for a Pantera?' And the answer is invariably the same; once you can comfortably demonstrate mastery of the hover and slow maneuvers in both directions, you're pretty much done with that model as a tool because you've learned what it can teach you.
Here's the test;
- Can you hover without the skids touch the ground for the entire flight pack?
- Can you do three pirouette turns both clockwise and counterclockwise directions?
- Can you slowly hover or fly the model away from you, come to a stop 20 feet away, make a 180° pirouetting turn, then hover/fly back back slowly toward yourself 'without' turning your body to look over your shoulder thus presenting the model as if it were going away from you?
- Can you hover out a full battery pack with the model hose-toward you without skids touching?
- Can you hover left-side toward yourself (nose left). What about in the opposite direction, nose right? Ditto 45° angles to yourself both away and toward yourself - so tail-first and nose-first, but at a 45° angle to yourself, both left and right sides?
- Can you fly a hovering loop maneuver where where the model moves to your right, comes to pause after ten feet, now climbs 5-8 feet and pauses again, performs a 180° turn, then hovers back toward yourself, but now higher than when you began and past you about 1 feet again, then come to a pause, let the craft settle to the original maneuver entry altitude, pause again, execute a 180° pedal turn again so the model is oriented in the original direction, hover taxi slowly to where you began the maneuver with the hover, and settle in for touchdown? Can you do this in both directions?
Mastering a fixed-pitch model to this degree probably takes a few weeks of motivated effort. Some a bit faster, others a bit slower. I find simulator use is the key accelerator.
What are the most common errors you observe novice pilots making?
TL;DR - jumping straight to the Pantera before learning everything the toy plus simulator have to teach you.
This could be a 1000 word essay with no effort. I'll try and keep it short. Biggest mistake is assuming once you can hover the fixed-pitch toy helicopter you're ready for your Pantera. Maybe you are, but more likely you aren't.
If you're of a certain age then the phrase 'patience grasshopper' may resonate (70s vintage television series, Kung Fu). My point is, what's the hurry?
More to the point, the more time spent with the toy (mastering what it can teach), then the less time and money you'll spend repairing your Pantera. Trust me, enjoy that toy until you've wrung every possible lesson from it!
How do I adjust gyro sensitivity, and what is it I'm looking for?
TL;DR - too sensitive results in shaking. There are two principal conditions to check the gain is not too high; whilst hovering, and while in forward flight.
Gyro gain is a holdover term from the early days of radio and gain is the same as volume. So if the gain is too high on the television, this means the volume is too high. So when the volume is too high for the gyro, the response is a rapid side-to-side jittering motion. Lower the gain until it stops. Do the same whether it's in forward flight or just hovering. But these are general instructions, consult your equipment manual for the specifics steps.
What does bind mean?
TL;DR - check the manual of your specific brand of RF system regarding this topic.
In the early days of remote control models, any transmitter on a channel (frequency) would control another model on the same channel. This was such a big deal modelers collectively worked to impound their transmitters in a common area (sometimes informally in Larry's trunk) but more often in an entire structure built at the club field for this express purpose because interference from another transmitter would result in a crash as the receiver couldn't distinguish which transmitter it should listen to and often ended up 'listening' to the one closest. Not good.
In 1991, the AMA worked a deal with the government to give up a swath of 20 low frequency exclusive-use channels (again, individual frequencies) for 50 shared-use frequencies. And subsequently, they gave up those in favor of using frequency hopping equipment on a much higher range of frequencies, 2.4GHz, again, non-exclusive use.
These systems put paid the days of worry about transmitters creating a conflict and models crashing. I'm not criticizing the AMA decision to give up exclusive frequencies as hindsight is 20/20, stating the facts of how things went down. Point being, with the introduction of frequency hopping systems, we needed a way to tell a receiver to listen only to one specific transmitter. This process is called binding. To learn more, consult your specific RF system manual.
When do main or tail rotor blades need replacing?
TL;DR - pretty much any time they show ANY evidence of damage, e.g. nicks, delamination, or anything but perfectly like they were when brand new. This is the kind of stuff that can kill you so pay close attention to their condition.
What's the ideal place to fly my Pantera?
TL;DR - there's really no such thing as an ideal place but a 10 acre open field is about as good as it gets.
I've seen pilots hover within a 2-car garage. Pretty stupid stunt but that's pretty much the lower bounds of the volume in which you can possibly fly your Pantera. Once watched a guy put a Pantera through a full 3D routine, to include piroflips, ticktocks, slow rolls, and more within a high school gymnasium (he was janitor and yes, he had secured the principal's permission, believe it or not). I have outfitted my model with inflatable floats and flown off a lake, which is a trip to watch as the mode hover and you see just how far the doughnut ring extends.
Best however - in my opinion - is a 10-50 acre field of wheat or rapeseed. This, so in the event of a crash, it lands in something relatively soft-ish. Close to ideal as I can envision.
Is a governor necessary?
TL;DR - strictly speaking no. In the real world, it makes life easier as holding engine RPM near constant makes a gyro's life easier.
Back in the day (and transmitters 'still' have the programming to do this), modelers would tinker with pitch and throttle curves. Basically, full throttle, max pitch. Hover-pitch, about 60% throttle. Low-pitch, about 20% throttle opening. In fact, I do this with my own models before ever engaging the governor just on the off chance the gizmo bites the dust then I stand a reasonable chance of recovering my model.
In my little corner of the world, it's only been a fun exercise because I've never had the misfortune of experiencing governor failure. However, because I believe with all my heart in the words of Lord Baden-Power . . . be prepared (author of the Boy Scout Guide), I set up basic pitch/throttle curves to this day.
Anyway, two additional resources, first, your specific RF-equipment manual will have greater detail and second, Dr. Google is your friend if you're curious, but these are the basics.
Isn't a Blade 32mCPX better for indoor flight?
TL;DR - for most pilots, you need to temper what you think you'll get from a high performance Blade-type indoor model and reality. Saying it's my opinion you can learn everything you need before moving to an all-weather fighter from a $50-75 department store-grade toy-helicopter - but it's your money.
Basically, it's NOT my place to say buying a Blade, or not buying a Blade model is any of my business. But since opinions are like assholes in that we all have one, here's mine. And while admittedly, many will disagree, it's my opinion these uber capable indoor models are more of a toy than a tool and largely turn out to be a novelty soon relegated to a shelf.
So if you've got more money than God himself, why not buy one because seriously, who cares what I think? What's more, the more velocity of money within the economy benefits so you buying one is better for the country!
Also not saying they're completely a waste of money because some of us do have where to fly them, e.g. gymnasiums and other large open indoor venues like conference rooms, etc. Large enough to be practical. However, I don't and I only once knew a guy with gym access and that was a special occasion so otherwise, nobody I know has access to the required amount of space to really let fly with even a 180mm Blade model like a 32mCPX or Fusion 180s, but whatever, you do you.
Really saying motivating the purchase for most guys is the dream of flying in a hotel room with the panache of a YouTube star, but when facts rear their ugly head, this turns out to be nothing but mental masturbation. But your money, do what you want!
Just don't fool yourself into thinking you'll actually fly it indoors more than once or twice before your wife puts her foot down and relegates you to the garage, where first you'll have to move the cars! Just saying.
What do you think of a Fusion 360 as an intermediate step?
TL;DR - Fusion 360 models are incredibly advanced, but when flying outdoors in the real world, bigger is always better.
I get asked a lot about 425mm blade models (called 450-class for whatever reason, I no longer expect consistency in the world). I hold the same opinion about these as with the sweet little Fusion 360, which isn't a heck of a lot smaller and is so sophisticated they appeal to me, also. Don't.
And seemingly, I'm always asked my opinion about one as an intermediate step between toy-like fixed pitch model and an all-weather model like a Pantera. Bottom line? I've heard better ideas. Here's the thing; when fighting mother nature, bigger is better. Period.
Same reason <51Kg Manny Pacquiao in his prime (best Flyweight ever) wouldn't stand a chance against any Heavyweight ever. Putting him up against a +91Kg fighter like George Foreman, Rocky Marciano, or Mike Tyson would be ugly. Likely result in murder charges!
So just as those two fighters would be an unfair match, comparing a small collective pitch model to an all weather 600-class is similarly, no contest. Like maybe when when the wind is pretty calm, OK, but how often in your experience is it really calm? Do what you like, it's your money, but in the real world, these models are just too small to be your main fighter. Great second model, but much too light for fighting wind. It's just physics. Bigger is better.
Especially considering two things. First, one of these puppies is more than loose change in the couch cushions because it'll set you back a cool $540 (before you add in for a few battery packs, plus a decent charger). Second; it's marketed as a 'perfect first high-performance collective pitch helicopter for any intermediate heli pilot', which begs the question; are you already an intermediate pilot?
If you are, then why are you asking me, you know the answer! And if you're not, then it's my opinion because in the real world, the wind is always blowing too much smaller helis, you should pass on one of these until you have a season or two under your belt. After that, then one of these is crazy fun. Last thing, if you get one now, in a year or two when you're actually ready to enjoy it, it'll be two or three generations back and they'll have improved it. Bide your time, hold off. There's a reason 600-class helis are most popular!
What makes a 600mm the best size?
In truth there's no one best size model for everybody, but you can make some generalizations. For example, that a simulator plus a tiny fixed pitch model are great for practicing orientation and hovering are uncontested.
Also uncontested is this . . . the bigger the model, the better it flies. Of course, and no surprise, the flip side of bigger means these models also cost more. Meanwhile, collective pitch helis range from 180-700mm.
. . . but the three popular nitro engine classes of .37, .55. and 1.05ci correspond to 500, 600, and 700mm main rotor blades. And if you survey 100 flying fields, the most popular warhorse for day-in and day-out use is a 600-class model. By a wide margin, and it's not even close!
Basically, 600-class is the cross over for kit/repair prices, the cost of avionics, fuel consumption, blade prices, and enough size to be largely unaffected by winds that ground smaller model. This isn't a new trend but one that's developed over the course of decades!
600-class is historically the sweet spot for good reason.
